This is aglio e olio given backbone and depth by a handful of anchovies melted into the oil. The tin was half empty and tonight is the night to finish it. Humble and fast, but tasting of the sea.

Serves 2. 15 minutes, 12 at the stove.

About 870 calories a serving, 15 g protein, 87 g carbohydrate, 52 g fat. From USDA figures for 75% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and drop in 8 oz pasta. Set it going and move to the pan.10 min
2. Slice 4 garlic cloves thin. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add the garlic. Stir until pale and fragrant, about two minutes; do not let it colour.
3. Add a handful of anchovies straight from the tin and let them break down in the hot oil, stirring once or twice, until they melt into the dressing, one minute.1 min
4. When the pasta is tender with a bite to it, scoop out 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Drain the pasta into a colander.
5. Add the pasta to the skillet with the anchovy oil and toss to coat, adding pasta water a splash at a time until the dish comes together into a thin, emulsified sauce that clings to the strands. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.

Note The anchovies dissolve and vanish; if you want them visible, chop and stir them in at the end instead. Leftovers keep refrigerated two days and warm through gently with a splash of water. Serve with a simple salad on the side, or follow with fruit.

A Roman classic that turns a tin of anchovies into the soul of a pasta dish. Their umami anchors everything else, melting into the oil to make the sauce you finish with. This shelf barely holds anything, so we're cooking from staples and making dinner from what every kitchen should have on hand.

Serves 2. 20 minutes, 15 at the stove.

About 820 calories a serving, 55 g protein, 65 g carbohydrate, 37 g fat. From USDA figures for 100% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook 6 ounces of pasta until it swims freely, about eight minutes. While the pasta cooks, warm 3 tablespoons of oil in a large pan over low heat.8 min
2. Slice 3 cloves of garlic thin and add them to the oil, stirring often until they turn golden and the oil smells like caramel, about three minutes. Add 3 or 4 anchovy fillets, breaking them into small pieces as they soften into the oil, and stir until they dissolve into the warmth, thirty seconds.1 min
3. Drain the pasta into the pan, toss well to coat, and taste. Add a pinch of salt if needed and grind black pepper over the top before serving.

Note Swap the anchovies for a tablespoon of miso paste if you run out; the umami carries over. Leftovers keep three days in the fridge but taste best fresh. Serve with a wedge of lemon and crusty bread to soak up the oil.

Half a jar of anchovies melts into hot oil with garlic to make a savoury sauce for pasta. It looks austere but tastes rich and salty, the kind of thing you learn to love on a weeknight when the pantry is bare.

Serves 2. 20 minutes, 15 at the stove.

About 960 calories a serving, 28 g protein, 86 g carbohydrate, 56 g fat. From USDA figures for 80% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil and add 8 oz pasta; stir and cook until al dente, about 8 to 10 minutes depending on shape.10 min
2. While the pasta cooks, mince 4 cloves garlic. Pour 1/4 cup oil into a large skillet over low heat and add the garlic; warm gently until fragrant, about 2 minutes, stirring often so it does not brown.
3. Add the 8 anchovy fillets to the warm oil and stir gently with a wooden spoon for 2 to 3 minutes until they soften and break apart into the oil; they will melt into a paste.
4. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup pasta water, and add it to the skillet with the anchovy oil. Toss well, adding pasta water a tablespoon at a time until the sauce coats the pasta lightly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Divide between two bowls and serve at once.

Note Swap dried red pepper flakes for black pepper if you have them. Leftovers keep two days covered in the fridge and reheat gently with a splash of water. Serve with lemon wedges and bread to finish every drop of oil.