When the shelf holds just oil, you cook potatoes until their edges turn golden and the kitchen fills with steam. This is pure comfort: start to table in thirty-five minutes, two pans, and the oil you already have.

Serves 2. 35 minutes, 10 at the stove.

About 470 calories a serving, 6 g protein, 47 g carbohydrate, 30 g fat. From USDA figures for 71% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

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1. Cut 1 pound waxy potatoes into three-quarter inch cubes and pat them dry on paper towels; this matters for crisping. Chop 1 small onion into bite-sized pieces and mince 4 cloves garlic; strip the leaves from 2 sprigs rosemary or thyme.
2. Heat one-quarter cup canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes in a single layer and let them sit without stirring until the bottom is golden, about 6 minutes.6 min
3. Stir and scatter the onion through the potatoes; cook, stirring every 2 minutes, until the potatoes are tender at the center when pierced with a fork and most edges are golden, about 12 minutes total. While they cook, set the table.12 min
4. When the potatoes are done, add the garlic and herb leaves and stir constantly for 1 minute until fragrant. Turn off the heat, taste, and season with 1 teaspoon salt and one-quarter teaspoon pepper, adjusting to your liking. Scrape everything into bowls.

Note Swap rosemary for dried oregano if fresh herbs are not on hand. Leftovers keep three days in the fridge and reheat well in a hot skillet. Serve alongside a bitter green salad dressed with more of the oil, or with a fried egg broken on top.