Tonight's dessert dinner: a tender, buttery cake that uses up half your sugar bag in one go. It's the sort of thing you mix in one bowl and bake while you eat, or eat warm with tea the next morning.

Serves 2. 45 minutes, 10 at the stove.

About 1530 calories a serving, 16 g protein, 284 g carbohydrate, 40 g fat. From USDA figures for 100% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

1. Heat your oven to 350°F [175°C]. Grease an 8-inch round cake pan with a little butter.
2. Zest the orange into a bowl, then squeeze in 3 tablespoons of juice. Add 6 tablespoons of softened butter and half a bag of sugar (about 2 cups), beating with a fork or whisk until the mixture is pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
3. Crack 2 eggs into the bowl one at a time, whisking well after each. Fold in 1 1/2 cups of flour and 1/4 teaspoon of salt until just combined, taking care not to overmix.
4. Pour the batter into the pan and smooth the top. Bake until a skewer through the center comes out clean, about 30 to 35 minutes.32 min
5. Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then turn it out onto a plate or board. Slice while still warm.

Note Swap any zest and juice for the same amount of vanilla extract if you have no citrus. The cake keeps for two days wrapped at room temperature or three days covered in the fridge. Serve warm with cold milk or coffee the next morning for breakfast.

Chicken thighs take a quick, glossy glaze made from a few tablespoons of sugar coaxed into caramel with vinegar and garlic. The sugar dissolves into a tangy-sweet sauce that clings to the skin, turning it dark and sticky in minutes.

Serves 2. 35 minutes, 8 at the stove.

About 430 calories a serving, 31 g protein, 37 g carbohydrate, 18 g fat. From USDA figures for 86% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

1. Pat 4 bone-in chicken thighs dry and season all over with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering, then lay the thighs skin-side down and cook without moving them for 8 minutes until the skin browns and renders.8 min
2. Flip the thighs and cook 3 minutes more. Mince 2 cloves garlic into the pan.3 min
3. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons sugar over the thighs and pour 2 tablespoons vinegar around them. Shake the pan so the sugar and vinegar meet in the heat. Let the mixture bubble and darken for 2 minutes, tilting the pan so the thighs roll in the caramel-like glaze until they coat evenly.2 min
4. Cover the skillet, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the thighs are cooked through and the glaze is thick and glossy, about 12 minutes. The meat should read 165 degrees F [74 degrees C] at the thickest part of the thigh, away from bone.12 min

Note Swap white vinegar for rice vinegar, or use soy sauce thinned with water. Leftovers keep 3 days in the fridge and shred into rice or noodles. Serve with steamed greens or white rice to catch the glaze.

Brown sugar sweetens and deepens a tangle of onions cooked low and slow until jammy, then tossed with pasta and sharp cheese. It uses up that sugar and turns a tired pantry into something worth eating.

Serves 2. 45 minutes, 15 at the stove.

About 760 calories a serving, 21 g protein, 104 g carbohydrate, 29 g fat. From USDA figures for 100% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

1. Slice 2 large onions into thin half-moons. Heat 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, then add the onions and cook for 8 minutes, stirring often, until they soften and start to turn golden at the edges.8 min
2. Reduce the heat to medium-low, sprinkle 1/4 cup sugar over the onions, stir well, and cook for 25 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes so the sugar dissolves and caramelizes evenly without scorching. The onions should be very soft and deep brown when done.25 min
3. While the onions cook, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook 6 oz pasta until it has a slight bite, then drain, reserving 1/2 cup pasta water.
4. Mince 2 garlic cloves and stir them into the onions during the last minute of cooking, then add the drained pasta to the skillet and toss. If the mixture looks dry, add a splash of the pasta water to help coat it all.
5. Grate or shave 2 oz Parmesan cheese over the top, grind black pepper over it, taste, and add more salt if needed.

Note Swap the Parmesan for any hard aged cheese you have. Leftovers keep covered in the fridge for three days and rewarm gently on the stovetop with a splash of water. Serve with a small green salad on the side.