A tart, bright pan sauce built on good vinegar and red wine turns chicken thighs into something worth cooking on a tired night. The vinegar does the heavy lifting here, cutting through the richness of the thighs and fat in the pan. Serve with a green salad and feel like you tried.

Serves 2. 35 minutes, 20 at the stove.

About 500 calories a serving, 32 g protein, 19 g carbohydrate, 32 g fat. From USDA figures for 88% of the ingredients; amounts are the recipe's.

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1. Pat four bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs dry with paper towels and season both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then lay the thighs skin-side down in the pan. Let them sear without moving them for 6 to 8 minutes, until the skin turns deep golden.7 min
2. Flip the thighs and transfer the skillet to a 400°F [200°C] oven. Roast for 12 to 14 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 165°F [74°C]. While they cook, dice 1 small onion and mince 2 cloves garlic.13 min
3. Remove the thighs to a warm plate. Set the skillet over medium-high heat on the stovetop, scatter the onion into the fat left in the pan, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often, until softened. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
4. Pour 1/2 cup red wine and 1/4 cup red wine vinegar into the pan and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to loosen the browned bits, the cue that the sauce has captured all the flavor from the chicken. Let it bubble and reduce for 3 to 4 minutes until it thickens slightly and tastes balanced between acid and wine.4 min
5. Whisk 1 tablespoon butter into 2 tablespoons flour in a small bowl until it forms a paste, then whisk this beurre manié into the simmering sauce. Cook for 1 minute, stirring, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper.1 min
6. Return the chicken thighs to the pan, turn them in the sauce to coat, and serve the thighs on warm plates with the sauce spooned over the top.

Note Swap the chicken for halibut or cod if you prefer fish; reduce the oven time to 8 minutes. Leftovers keep in the refrigerator for three days and taste sharper the next day. Serve with a bitter green salad dressed simply with oil and more vinegar, and crusty bread to soak up the sauce.